Proper mulch installation starts way before the mulch truck shows up at your place. I always begin with thorough bed preparation – pulling weeds, assessing what’s already there, and making sure the soil conditions are right. Then comes the actual installation using what I call the “three-inch rule,” but here’s the thing – I don’t apply that blindly everywhere. Around new plantings, I go lighter to prevent stem rot. Near established trees, I can go deeper for better weed control. The key is creating clean, defined edges that won’t disappear after the first coastal storm and making sure coverage is consistent across the entire bed.

This is one of the biggest mistakes I see homeowners make. When you pile mulch against plant stems or tree trunks, you’re creating perfect conditions for collar rot, insect problems, and even rodent damage. I always maintain proper clearance distances that protect your plants while still getting all the mulch benefits. Think of it this way – plants need to breathe at soil level, and mulch piled against stems blocks that natural air circulation. It’s like putting a wet blanket around someone’s neck.

Living on the Northern Beaches, this is something I deal with constantly. The secret is selecting the right mulch materials and installing them properly. Those lightweight pine straws that blow around in our westerly winds? Useless here. I use quality hardwood mulches and heavier decorative materials like river pebbles that can actually handle our coastal conditions. Proper edge definition and installation techniques also help – when mulch is installed correctly, it stays put even during decent rain events.

Given our conditions here – sandy soil that drains like a bathtub with no plug, coastal winds, constant weed pressure – I’d say mulching isn’t just helpful, it’s pretty much essential. Professional mulch installation can reduce water evaporation by up to 70% compared to bare soil. During water restrictions that hit us every few summers, properly mulched gardens keep thriving while bare soil gardens struggle. It’s like giving your garden protective armor against all the challenges we face in this coastal environment.

Tree mulching is different from general garden bed mulching. I extend coverage beyond the drip line because that’s where the actual root zone is – most people just mulch up to the branch tips and miss the area where it does the most good. But here’s what’s non-negotiable: I maintain proper clearance from the trunk to prevent collar rot and pest issues while still covering the root zone effectively. Usually that means 3-4 inches deep in the root zone, tapering to nothing as you approach the trunk.